Luna di miele a Napoli

There may be bikes at some point this week but we did not arrive on them so here we are in the off-topic bit of the forum for a spot of journaling

Day 1

An anti-social alarm call at 5:30am would normally have me swearing murderously at the perpetrator but it was me wot set it so I dutifully leapt out of bed to begin our moon of honey. And by ‘leapt’, I of course mean ‘hit the snooze button and went back to sleep’. Alas, time and EasyJet wait for no man so by 9:30 we were boarding an A320 for Naples, but not before having a minor argument about the size of a small carry-on case and a £60 fee for the privilege of an overhead locker space.

A good book (The Long War by Terry Pratchett and Stephen Baxter) and a snooze soon saw off the flight from Manchester. After landing we ran the rat maze that led to the facial and fingerprint scanning booths (thanks, Brexit) and then out to the taxi rank. I leave all the talking to The Mrs, for it is now that she is, seeing as she’s fluent in Italiano while I know about four words, and one those turns out to be Spanish.

Naples is, like many large European cities noisy, busy, and with no discernible rules of the road. The principle of ‘give way’ gives way to ‘I was here first’. A common understanding that this chaos is actually the natural order of things makes for surprisingly little road rage. And then there are the scooters. Many, many scooters. A gazillion scooters.

Everyone rides in shorts and t-shirts, of course. Others are also carefree about helmets. Some clearly consider their scooter as family transport, with small children wedged between safety-conscious parents while slightly larger offspring are set to riding up front, where you can keep an eye on them. Solo riders are free to smoke cigarettes and use their mobile phones. One lady, realising the importance of vehicle control, had her phone wedged betwixt chin and shoulder as she chatted, hands free.

As we dragged our luggage up the narrow cobbled street to our apartment it occurred to me that it would make a good photograph, so I reached to my back pocket…but the pocket was bare. I’d left my phone in back of the taxi - arrgh! Too late. He was already gone.

So that’s a distraction but first we have to collect keys from Andrea, our AirBnB host. Who, it turns out, has arrived on a Triumph Scrambler. 5 stars pretty much guaranteed right there, my friend. The place is an interesting combination of quirky, but very Italian, decor and unreachable plumbing.

Back to the problem in hand. Or rather, not in hand. That’s the problem. Okay, don’t panic, call my phone from the other phone - it’s on silent. :man_facepalming:t3: Aha! Use my watch to ping it using the apartment WiFi - except there’s an internet outage in the area. Seriously? Okay, just use the other phone as a hotspot - no, doesn’t work. Ooh, the taxi company is on the transaction record (I didn’t pay). Call them up - they hang up. Running out of ideas but the taxi office is only 15 minutes walk so we pop in, explain. The nice lady says she’ll send a message out and will call us back. One cappuccino and a cold beer later we tried calling the phone again and this time our driver picks up - huzzah!. €28 and an hour later, we are reunited. Phew! Now let’s get back to why we’re here. More cold beers and pizza.

Tomorrow we plan over breakfast and execute over the next few days. We have ideas but let’s see which ones come to fruition. Meantime, here are a few pics I managed to take.

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Didn’t realise you were getting married dude. Congratulations, all the best for the future :slightly_smiling_face:

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Quite an eventful first day then. I hope the remainder of your trip is stress free mate. Naples is fun you will enjoy it.

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Naples is still on our to do list - have a great break!

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Enjoy “la dolce vita” :slightly_smiling_face:

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Hello from the future - if you’re in the UK it is tomorrow here. Don’t worry, everything seems fine.

Day 2

In which not very much happened. 36 Celsius still not getting old. Plenty of cold beers help. I have been liking the small, backstreet bike/scooter garages that must have a continuous stream of business. All scooters dodged again today. Got to keep your wits about you, mind. Indicators are for decoration only.

There have been buildings…

Ships…

And a small reminder to of home…

Next up, a ferry to Procida - the Tobermory of the Med.

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Future report incoming for all those west of CET.

Day 3

Scorchio! Up at the crack of jeez-it’s-getting-hot and head for the ferry port via a small brioche and cappuccino. My Italian is coming along nicely. I now recognise nearly eight words and understand almost six of them. Good progress.

Something of a confused debacle trying to understand directions today. Turns out there are two ferry ports. Port one directed us, poorly, to port two. Instruction translating to “turn right at the shoulder’” are not as helpful as they think. But we find our way on to a Tragiatto to Procida and soon the Mediterranean is slipping beneath the ferry as we head for the island.

Procida is all of 4km square. Not worth hiring an electric bike let alone a scooter. Apart from the necessary cold beers, most of the day was mooching and lounging in the sun. It’s a tough life but someone has to keep tourism alive.

We like to keep things fluid so a tentative 6pm return ferry booking gave way to day one and an 8:10pm hydrofoil, which are much more fun - recommended.

Back in Naples we have learnt enough of the terrain now to strike out confidently in the direction of ‘home’ knowing there will be bars aplenty en route. And so it was. I’m not a footie fan but there are worse ways to spend an evening than enjoying (more) cold beers and chatting with a local while Senegal scare Belgium. Out bar buddy has a bet on England to win the World Cup. I politely inquired if she knew when we last won the trophy. She nodded without irony.

And so the evening ends. We find ourselves enjoying the city more each day and I’m sure we will leave with intentions to return..

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Day 4

In which we got back late and I forgot to post anything after a late night session involving an immodest amount of bierres. It was 10 of the clock before we launched in to a new day. Feeling less oppressed by the southern Italian heat I figured I as acclimatising until I opened the shutters of the apartment to a dark street and an ominous rumble of thunder.

The morning was spent dodging the showers, with limited success, and generally mooching about.

We had a new scooter experience and found a shop with tasteful things for the house.

And visited yet another opulent church. Catholics don’t do things by halves.

Finding a coffee shop that roasts its own was an unexpected pleasure among the myriad of cafes up an down the little streets. Then it was time to explore what lies beneath the city.

Back above ground again we wandered out to see what the Triumph and Ducati dealers are like here. That 30-40 minute walk showed us the worst of Naples, sadly. Huge amounts of rubbish and endless graffiti. Run-down buildings everywhere. Homeless people with makeshift camps. Both dealerships are within 100m of each other, and the BMW one is just across the road. I’ll post some pics and a bit more about them elsewhere.

I’ll leave this post with a visual quiz. Seen on our travel through a particularly eclectic tat bazaar, how many of these can you name?

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Day 5

In which a funny thing happened on the way to the forum.

The proposed bike rental was shelved in favour of a trip to Pompeii. We had intended to do Vesuvius as well but we got a little pushed for time so that’ll have to wait for another day.

An early-ish start with a walk under blue skies to Napoli Porta Nolana station where the train to Sorrento will pass through Pompeii Scavi, our destination. It’s a commuter train and it’s heavily graffitied carriages were packed to the gills. It’s a 35 minute ride out of the city through welcome green countryside, with mountains, and the volcano, creating a dramatic backdrop.

Estimates for Pompeii’s original population vary from around 6000 to as high as 30,000. About 1,500-2000 of those perished in the 79AD eruption. The place Iis much bigger than I expected. It’s an incredible excavation that’s taken many decades and they’re still learning about life there. You don’t have to be a history buff to appreciate the place.

This gives a dramatic sense of the impact the volcano had on the city.

This is what a forum used to look like, before the internet…

This isn’t my pic but we did see the mosaic at entrance to one of the finer houses. In case your Latin is a bit rusty, it says ‘Beware of the dog’.

I didn’t know very much about Pompeii before we arrived, other than what everyone knows, but I did know that Pink Floyd made a film of themselves playing in the amphitheatre in 1972. The still have shows there and we couldn’t get any closer than this, but was still pretty excited to be this close.

Anyway, here is a taste of the streets and houses.

And so it was back for our last dinner on the streets of Napoli before packing up and getting ready to fly home tomorrow. It’s been an experience, as they say.

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Nice pictures. Italy is always something between chill and misery. Spent a lot of time in Milan for work and your telling reminds me some similar experiences.

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I’m told the north is more affluent and quite different to the south. Apart from this trip I’ve only been to Venice, which isn’t representative of anywhere.

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Definitely.

It’s not.

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Fantastic write up.

What amazes me is that Vesuvius is still live and yet the whole valley is built up again.

Enjoy the rest of your stay.

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