Ratbike Renovation

Ok, so I’ve ventured into the garage again… and stripped down the mullered wiring loom to try and work out what I can do to convert a 6 pin ignition switch into a 7 pin plug on the loom. Whilst industrious, the person who “converted” the loom to key fob switches instead of regular, has 1) used at least a whole roll of black insulation tape to hide his ferklings, AND 2) done a hideous job!

Time to get my diagrams out again! (In Portuguese :man_facepalming:)





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Cut the red wire.

NO, THE GREEN ONE…

Oops.

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Looks like it’d be easier to start over and make your own loom.

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I’ve got another loom, I’m trying to work out what is essential on the ignition switch…

The loom has an 8 pin connector (with 7 used pins)
The switch I have has a 6 pin connector with all pins used.
I’m trying to work out what is the best way to chop it. Put a 6 pin on the loom, or an 8 pin on the new switch. I’ve now got an English wiring diagram, so I don’t have to worry about about the mullered one now! :partying_face:

CB450DX wiring diagram.pdf (1022.6 KB)

Still have to sit and think a while before cutting!

Edit- weirdly, can’t find the wiring diagram for the switch I have, so today I must get the multimeter out and make a connector block diagram.

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Right… so buggering about has led to this…

If my brain is working here… I should be able to use the loom as standard; convert the new switch into the 8 pin socket, but have the red and black wire come straight out to a separate switch and then feeds back into the red pin.
This making effectively a 7 pin switch as the original?
Am I making sense, or are the voices misleading me?

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Pretty hard for my small brain to see what you are trying to do but why don’t you just join the red/black wire to the red?
I don’t know what PA is but is it because you want to be able to turn the park light on/off by an external switch? If so then just put a switch on the Park Light live wire to ground.
I think :thinking:

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I’m sorely tempted to do just that, but the bike is electric start only, so I don’t want to create any chance of a battery drain by my inability to interpret writing diagrams competently… by adding the standalone switch, I recreate (I think) the original wiring

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Before youTOUCH that lot have you got a ‘power probe’? This is the one tool I can not work without. It’s my magic tool as it not only tells you the current in an unidentifiable wire if it’s negative or positive but it also can shoot a current down it too or even a negative. I bypassed my engine starter from the CAN- bus system with it on my 2013 Bonneville and made a new link so the system always started no matter what the brain box got angry about

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In fact I’ve just rewired a fire damage loom on my car with around 80 multiple thickness wires.

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I just have a standard multimeter… but don’t worry… I am pretty certain that with the donkey :poop: wiring that muppet did going straight in the bin now… I’m already in a more comfortable place.

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