Hi all, so, will be doing some post season servicing ready for the winter commute soon…
On my 2010 Tiger 1050 (ABS); I am seeing about the need to purge the ABS when doing a brake fluid change…and that requires either a dealer or a dealertool and laptop.
My question is; if I ride and test the brakes, and engage the ABS a few times, does that, in effect, purge the fluid in the ABS bit?
So, in effect…I could do a ‘normal’ fluid change…ABS fluid remaining unchanged, ride and engage the ABS a few times…then a second fluid change, and this will, in effect have run the new fluid in to the ABS bit, so overall I have replaced all the fluid at least once?
You’ll need a software to force the ABS valves to be opened while bleeding.
Tunecu can do that.
I have my own method, Time to time I engage the ABS voluntarily on gravel, etc. to allow the fluid to circulate, and it’s good time to time to make it work without waiting for an urgent stop.
Thanks @Hubaxe , that’s what I was hoping. I am happy to engage the ABS a few times anyway, get to know the limits of my bike etc…but, to clarify, this will in effect run fluid through the ABS ‘valve’(?) in effect purging old fluid?
I think it’s better than no bleed at all.
The only way to bleed the complete circuit is to use a software.
Honestly, I have Tunecu + the connection cable, but won’t use it to bleed the ABS. Not sure it’s worst the pain.
But I’m not a reference, I never clean my bike, just ride it in all weather, and just make sure everything works fine. Not bleeding the ABS the “right way” is to my standard acceptable.
The only way to effectively bleed the ABS system is using either Tune ECU or DealerTool, what needs to take place is for example using DealerTool the software opens the ABS unit valves so that you may bleed the brake system, and you may need to use this function several times when bleeding the system. Bleeding the brakes without the tool will leave fluid in the ABS pump and it just circulates around the system, effectively contaminating the old fluid with the new. Unfortunately, there is nothing that will purge the ABS pump apart from the tool.
Hi Andy, great thanks, I was a little unsure if I could carry on using Iceman so I changed it to Rocker, well I am at heart and mind although I couldn’t ride the cramped cafe racers I had back in the day for to long, glad you are ok and look forward to your posts, take care out there and ride safe.
I seen a video, a car, a ktm moto-gp bike and a superduke road bike drag racing etc. In the brake test the standard road bike pulled up faster than the moto-gp bike abs??? Personally I think abs is a good thing on road bikes, especially on high performance machines. Now traction control… you dont need that on the likes of a bonnie!
I’ve more than once spun the rear wheel a bit sideways when manoeuvring on wet grass or mud, don’t know if the traction control stopped that from turning into a drop. Biggest slipup was on a campsite where I saved things mid slide with a foot down and kept going without stopping. Mate who was behind me at that time gave me the proper advice of dragging rear brake to avoid such things, but I always forget and it feels more stable with feet properly on pegs without having to balance foot pressure on brake.
The TC warning light flashes and engine drive goes ‘funny’, so you know it’s working. Only way to know if it helps prevent a drop is to try same manoeuvrer with and without TC enabled.
I’ve seen warning light lit a few times when I’m not careful pulling away on loose gravel or when when going over humpbacked bridges fast enough to ‘go light’. And once when I accelerated too hard in a straight line on a wet road (subconsciously I felt that now that bike is upright I don’t have to be careful but when I triggered the the traction control I realised my error).
I have also had to disable TC once to get up a slippy muddy slope.
abs??? Personally I think abs is a good thing on road bikes, especially on high performance machines. Now traction control… you dont need that on the likes of a bonnie!
