Ever thought of making your own twin leading front brake? I’d have a play at that although I done have a need for it. I’m sure it can be made to look original equipment!!
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Never thought of making one - don’t know if I could - all I have is a disc cutter, some files and a cheap MIG. But they are good looking.
I was never really that impressed with drums after getting on machines with discs.
I’ve had cables snap on me (once with a back brake only chop - well that was the rocket coming off the thread to be honest - which was slightly alarming) and a few clutches on both Japs and British. Not too worried about broken clutch cable as I can limp along ok without.
I get along with discs ok and the hydraulics allow the things to be swapped/spaced/fixed fairly easily onto bobbin hubs (Triumph or Harley).
I’ll just convert the left side brake lever on this one onto a master cylinder and run the hose to the disc on the right side. Well, that’s the plan. And I know it’ll lock the wheel when I want it to.
Make a twin leading shoe, hmmmm… 
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Yes, you see I’ve planted a seed!! It is interesting without a doubt and tls front brakes command a good price !!
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Went down the fridge to finish up the welding on the seat cowl thing
Came out quite well so far. Still lots of welding to do on it but it’s a bit chilly and there’s no rush.
Had a look at sorting the back brake. I’ve got one of these master cylinders - which are nice due to having the reservoir built in. This is supposedly for a KTM trial thing but there’s no markings and I don’t think I’m gonna trust anything that looks Chinese. I’ve heard of kickstarts breaking and sticking into people’s shins.
Why people are even considering Chinese bikes is beyond me.
So, I think I’ll go for this one. It’s a Nissin from a Tiger 800 so the master cylinder should be ok. Although it is a bit of an infection I’ll consol myself that it is off of a sort of Triumph.
Over… 
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Figuring out how to convert a lefthand conical back brake into a righthand hydraulic disc brake.
Needs tidying up a bit but I think that should work. The master cylinder is bolted into top hats welded into the subframe (just in case you was thinking I’d just drilled and bolted through it) I’ve drilled another hole into the brake lever arm in case I need an extra return spring.
That’s another job I don’t have to think about tonight.
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Back in the garage, hooray. A bit chilly but a new season is upon us.
Tons to do and a quandary to muse over but for now, get on with some CAD.
These early oil in frame T140 sometimes suffered from oil leaks when the frames’ welds fractured along the joint of the swingarm mount.
You can see above how the swingarm pivot is mounted into a tube let into the oil tank backbone of the frame. In later models this joint was strengthened by welding a plate - rather than a lug - for the mudguard mount.
I used the above photo from t’tinternet as the bikes I have already with this conversion are not easily photographed.
So, a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) and…
…cut out some 5mm thick mild steel to suit. One for each side.
All ready to be tacked into place. Then properly welded on when I dismantle for paint etc.
Now then. The question that’ll be keeping me awake:
The capacity of the trackmaster tank is just about 10 pints. That’s about 1.2 gallons.
Ok for doing 4 laps of a flat track circuit but not much good for actually going to the next town and back. If the next town’s garage is open then all is ok but here in the West Country you never know.
So, I was thinking, a spare petrol tank may be in order. Easy to get and mount one of those extra clip on plastic things but, as ya’ll know, I’m more worried about looks than practicality so that just won’t do.
I don’t fancy carrying a back pack with a spare half gallon tank in there either.
I do, however, have an oil tank from a T120 which is exactly the same shape as the plastic side panel as shown in the photo above. I still need to measure it’s capacity but it’s probably about 3 pints. Enough for an extra 10 or 15 miles on top of the 50 miles-ish from the main tank.
Lots of work to get it to fit though. Move coils, move battery, cut frame tabs, amend oil tank extensively to convert into a spare tank. Design and mount so that it is easily removed to fill main tank.
Interesting project but would it really be worth it for another few miles? It’s not like I actually go anywhere
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Convert the upper section of frame tube to “Fuel In Frame” and plumb to tank?
I’m sure a man of your caliber… 
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Blimey, never thought of that. Hmmmm…not gonna get much sleep tonight and the dreams are gonna be weird. 
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Probably get another 30 miles in the handlebars… 
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I could just use the oil tank as an oil tank and fill the frame with petrol.
Just getting silly now. Probably silly to start with. 
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Cracking on
Just about everything there or there abouts. Trying a fast action EMGO on this one so looks a bit bulky on the handlebars, gone for a smaller dia master cylinder for less of a wooden feel. Headlight bracket, tail number plate, cor, loads done today…
A few bits to do, rear caliper rebuild, bash plate fixing, seat to make, tank (not looking forward to lining the tank) then it’ll be coming apart for paint and rebuild…
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Warming up so back in the garage. Build is coming apart to finish welding and paint…
…the engines aren’t getting any lighter 
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Completed dismantle then carried on with paint
and completed all the welding on the frame. Now just gotta sand it all down (oh joy - that’ll take most of the day) pressure wash out the oil in frame - in case there’s any 'orrible bits in there and then paint.
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Phew, frame all sanded and ready for epoxy primer (well almost). A right chore spread over a few days.
The strengthening plates all welded on to keep the swingarm from cracking the downtube at the weld. Sometimes a problem with these early T120 frames - seeing as it’s been fine for 50 years it’ll probably be ok but might as well while there’s good access.
The frame has been sandblasted at some point in it’s life and will need a good clean out. This is looking up from underneath into the oil-in-frame backbone.
It’s already had a bit of a wash out but the sand particles remain. Never assume that just plugging up/taping off holes will protect from any sort of blasting, even vapour blasting, it will always get where you don’t want it to.
I’ll use a jet washer and some heavy solvent and then grease washer soapy stuff to get it clean. I’ll also be installing a paper oil filter into the frame that’ll be changed every 100 miles or so until I know it’s clean.
Blasting compounds will properly kill an engine - especially newer high tolerance engines - really fuckin quickly. Never risk it, clean, clean and clean again.
I’ll be spending most of the day tomorrow getting that sand out of there. What fun, but I want to make sure the ex-chop T120 engine is gonna be fine in it’s new home. 
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Bits all painted black and lacquered. Tins to do now
Out with the paintbrushes to stop people calling it a Bisa or a Norton…pffft
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How come there’s no overspray on your pristine garage door? 
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Well, bolloxed up the tank. Took all day to paint on the Triumph logos but when tried on the frame the lettering was too big and too low. So now it’s been sanded off and the tank will have to be repainted. Poo.
I normally get a new build bike up on it’s feet before lifting in the engine. I don’t know why as it’s a lot easier this way now I’m getting old and feeble.
I’ve always done Jap 4s like this as the engines are so bloody heavy, so now it’ll be twins as well.
Swingarm, all new bushes and bobbins and wangle on the four rubber covers. Always a bit of a fiddle but done.
Engine plates bolted up and shocks on. Nice when it all bolts together easily.
Right, sand and paint, sand and paint that tank.
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