The good old 1050 sticky clutch topic (and hopefully solution)

That’s a recurrent topic on 1050 models (all of them).
My Sprint ST 1050 from 2005 is concerned by the issue.

As the bike is hot, the downshift is almost impossible without a little gas blip that unstick the clutch plates.

I have changed the clutch friction plates (EBC) it improved a bit for a while, but no miracle. Tried different oil, same, instant improvement but no miracle.

The only durable improvement consisted to add an half dose of MECACYL CR to the oil. That’s not to me a real solution.

So reading through forums, I find out that a recent version of the clutch lifter pin equipped after 2011 versions of Speed Triple models.
But is that compatible ?
I did something very simple, compared my SPRINT ST 1050 clutch part list with the SPEED TRIPLE last version part list.
Guess what? Everything is exactly the same apart that clutch lifter… And moreover, the replaced part is the one referenced for my bike. So no doubt.
The design issue (yes that’s how it should be called) of the clutch has been addressed and fixed by the part T1171234

The difference on the new part are some slots to allow oil to circulate along the pin and oil/cool the clutch.

Piece gonna be ordered very soon, but won’t have it now. I won’t pay 40 buck for transport + toll from UK to France. That will wait for my daughter’s next travel to visit her old grumpy dad.

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Ever since I started to ride 56 years ago ( :grimacing: ), I was told that you should always blip the throttle when changing down. I have always done so on all my bikes, and I certainly hear other people doing it. Isn’t this normal any more?

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That’s the first bike I ride that need the blip treatment. But I started to ride only 36 years ago :laughing:

I’m a downshift blipper! You can do clutchless downshifts with ease too. Sure thats all an auto-blipper is.

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I still do that. On the S3 that is, the Tiger has got a quickshifter , works a treat…

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I started 44 years ago - you obviously didn’t get the memo… :rofl::stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

Although replacing (upgrading) the pin is on my radar, a new clutch friction plate pack, and a good clean and debur of the basket etc has certainly helped my clutch issues, and those ‘fixes’ are now a few miles strong.

The jerky throttle is more of an issue for me…

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I finally found some time to work on the bike instead of riding it.
To avoid you to reread the whole thread, I’ve ordered the upgraded version of clutch pin from Triumph, and took the chance to put back genuine clutch springs.
I did the error to put the “reinforced” spring supplied with the EBC disc kit.
On the side stand, no need to drain the oil.
Remove the right fairing panel.
Remove in that order, the starter cover, the engine cover, and finally the clutch cover. The guess work is the removal and cleaning of the old seals.

Then remove the 5 bolts from the clutch (the ones with the springs around.
The pull pin is then accessible. Quiet simple. Just don’t overtight the bolts. Its all aluminium.
Here is the old vs new version of the pull pin

And the bl…dy reinforced springs vs genuine one

Waiting for the seals to put the covers back and test.


I could ride the bike. It’s now much better.
And for the ones who buy EBC clutch disc kits, do not mount the supplied springs. Keep the genuine ones.
It’s a non sense to provide heavier springs, knowing that the genuine ones are strong enough to avoid any clutch slip.