Yanking my chain?

2010 1050 ABS. Chain adjustment.

I always find this a bit of confsuement… The adjustment is, from memory (so don’t shoot me); 35-45mm at the tightest point. I don’t think I’d know how you’d even find that tightest point unless you play with the chain at the same time someone rolls the bike forwards? :thinking:

I have never (in my year of ownership) ever noticed a “tightest point”.

That’s one issue.

Next…10mm total play…in “the middle”. Well…how accurately can one measure that exactly? And, how many mm fore or aft of the middle will it affect that 35-45mm play?

Is this measurement, once you’ve found the exact centre point of the chain at its exact tightest point - remember, we’re dealing with 10mm overall play here… Is this measurement taken perpendicular to the ground…or at 90° to the slope of the chain? (The chain slopes from the front sprocket down to the rear).
A degree or two out on this angle of slope is gonna surely add a mm or so somewhere…? Plus, the bike is “leaning over” as must be on its side stand…so is that 10mm play ‘vertically’ or vertically relative to the angle of plane that the bike is leaning at? The chain doesn’t go just up and down, it flexes up and towards you as it were, because of the lean angle.

And, just to reiterate, with all this in mind, we’re trying to adjust based on the chain being “out”; say at “32mm” or “47mm” free play? And we need to; say, tighten it by 5-6mm…? Blimey…there are varying degrees of accuracy here based on numerous perameters of varying tolerance.

And, with all that in mind, and a years riding (albeit not that many miles); there is zero adjustment needed on my part - never had to adjust a chain before, I thought it was needed regularly?

My chain slack is “about 35mm”… And, im not looking to shear nanoseconds off a lap time…does it matter? At best…after more miles and time…I’m needing to potentially “loosen” my chain? :man_shrugging:

Confused I am…

1 Like

Stop over thinking it, a couple of mm either way is not going to matter in the scheme of things. but better to be looser than tighter.


“about 35mm” is fine.

I check mine by lifting the chain with the tip of my boot just before I get on the bike - if I think about it - while it’s still on the side stand. A couple of inches does me…and we’re off…brrrrrrrm :sunglasses:


Thank you both…thats kinda my thinking in reality too.

There was a bit of discussion on another forum, and threw my toys out the pram…but thought it interesting enough to pose the same quandry here…

I blame the whiskey.

Thank you!

Same here, I don’t overthink my chain adjustment but I have definitely had tight spots on my older bikes.

Also, it’s fairly easy to see when a chain really is “too loose” because it hangs down in the middle :face_with_raised_eyebrow:

1 Like

You will naturally have slack on the top run of your chain but the important bit is that the chain itself is being “pulled” by the drive socket so will always be tight when the bike is in motion. So in theory, the top run of the chain can be resting on the swing arm when stationary but well clear when in motion.

1 Like

Thanks…that kinda ties in with one of many vids I watched…as you push the bottom of the chain to check it’s slackness…don’t push so hard that the top run of the chain lifts off the chain guide…