2010 Tiger 1050 sticky clutch?

[DanielB]

I am going to take the opportunity to start a new thread, on a new topic, on a new forum!

I know that a search elsewhere may yield results, but those are all a few years old; so I thought I may post the same issue, but for a more modern (and relevant to me) resolution…

As posted elsewhere, I am enjoying the fun and foibles of my ‘new’ 2010 Tiger 1050…

I have ridden it A LOT in the week I’ve had it and thoroughly enjoying it…however…the clutch is sticky.

Well…not the clutch, but the gear change.

This is the most modern bike I’ve had, I am used to and ok with “agricultural” gearbox… I know no different!

I have spent a good while taking out any slack in the clutch cable, with minimal play at the lever (couple mm)…I adjusted the actual position of the footpedal to suit my foot.

I believe that it is a new chain, new oil - but all before my ownership.

As the ride gets longer and engine hotter, the gear changes get more difficult to engage. They make it…but I’m getting a sore left foot/toe and on occasion it doesn’t change up first time. It’s all a bit “sticky”.

I can try and record more specific issues if useful, I’m doing them from wine induced memory at the moment…

I am happy to take on reasonable mechanical jobs. Once ascertained it’s not chain tension, oil type, clutch adjustment…is it “simply” a new clutch plate package?

What about new springs?

I don’t mind having a go at that…althoug there may be a few more posts…

All thoughts and opinion welcome

[Eldon]

Personally I’d change the oil so I would know what was in it as a benchmark starting point

Years ago I had a Montesa 315 and I got to judge the life of the gearbox oil by the clutch operation. No other measure but that would tell me if it was time to change it.

[ducatitotriumph]

As per above from @Eldon , make sure that the right oil is in it? It actually does make a difference that you can feel so worth a go

[DanielB]

Thanks, I will do this.

And, just to square this initially particular circle…

10/40 or 15/50… ?

Semi or fully synthetic?

Manual says either…

[BrownMouse]

I was going to mention oil too correct level and fresh stuff always makes a difference.
When I first got my bike I was negligent in checking oil levels (being as it’s so difficult to do) and I let myself believe modern bikes didn’t burn much oil. Got a shock when dealer did first engine change and they said it was over a litre short. Now I check often and find it uses a bit more than about 100ml per 1000 miles.

On matter of oil type, the thicker weight (15/50) would be for very hot climates I believe. As to oil type, I just go by what my owners manual says, which for my 1200 twin is fully synthetic. (I even go by the specific suggestion of Castrol Power 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 which isn’t too bad a price for the 4L bottles on Amazon).

[885speed]

Have you changed the oil or previous owner, he may have used cheap oil just to sell the bike? Motul, Silkolene, Castrol seem to be the faves, 10w40 semi. Make sure it is motorcycle oil not car spec. Chain adjustment can make a big difference.

[DanielB]

Excellent advice, as ever , thank you!

Yes, oil changed by previous owner before sale.

[Johnjo]

Hi Daniel.

Thinking back my Tiger shift was better for using semi synthetic oil. Seems to prefer it to fully synthetic

[DanielB]

…motul 10/40 semi switched in this afternoon.

Initially, first 15 mins or so I felt “all my clutch woes are sorted”…

After getting it all good and hot, alas, there were a few dodgy changes. Some times really, really unable to shift it in to gear.

It seems worse when in traffic when your shifts may be a little slower between 1 and 2…3 to 2…

It’s not always bad…just not as smooth as I’d like.

So, that’s the oil switched. Cable adjusted. I may now see how it goes and consider a new clutch pack?

And, if a new clutch pack is the next step; any recommendations?

AND and…what about them springs? Replace as well? If so for stiffer or softer?

I’m beginning to get a sore left toe

[ducatitotriumph]

Its a difficult one as anything suggested now on is going to be money?
A dodgy gear shift would indicate cabling but you’ve already been there so the next step is open it up i suppose?

[DanielB]

I don’t mind opening it up

Never done that before…

I think/feel that the clutch isn’t right…it’s difficult, especially when warm, to engage some gears, on occasions. 2 to 3 mostly. And not everytime.

I have adjusted the clutch cable, both at the engine - with no slack there
I have played with the slack adjustment at the lever…

I have replaced/ensured the oil is new and correct.

Gear shifts are fine, but seem to get worse as engine heats up.

I am happy to consider a clutch pack. Again, this current one could well be 12 years old…

So that’s where I’ll consider going next.

I believe I need:
A clutch pack
Springs
3 gaskets
Gasket seal?

Do I need to drain the oil?

Clutch pack recommendations etc all welcome!

[Col_C]

Have a look at these two threads on TTF…

Clutch pin mod

&

One last hoorah....

Over time I believe Triumph have made a few minor tweaks to the clutch on the 1050, the issue seems to be reducing the risk of plate stiction. I wouldn’t go so far as saying it’s common but certainly not unheard of.
The above threads should explain all…

[DanielB]

Thanks @Col_C I have had a good read through.

So far, it seems…and oil change has helped.

Going forwards I am going to consider new friction plates and also new drive plates, and springs - or at least check them all!

I also feel that 40 quid is worth it for a new clutch lifter pin - that has the oil flow grooves in it…

But all this is ‘only if’ things get sticky again!

Thanks all!

[PatW]

How many miles on it? Below 20k miles i would use full synth, above 20k i would be tempted to switch to semi synth. Also i don’t believe you mentioned chain adjustment, apologies if its a bit patronising but adjusting the chain perfectly can make a huge difference, although the deterioration when hot probably points to clutch springs, its tempting to do everything whilst you’re in there but springs may be enough. Good luck.

[DanielB]

Thanks, this is all useful info!

26k miles… Am using semi synthetic.

After another week it feels ok still, better than it was…
I am also learning to preload the clutch before changing up as well…although that’s still being learnt…it certainly makes for far smoother changes when I get it right!

As money is currently tight I am going to see how I get on “as is”…

However I heed what you say about the chain…and will check that.

I feel that if I do decide to get “in there” I will be happy to check the friction plates, the drive plates and also the springs, and likely just, for piece of mind, and if there are any signs of wear, renew them all!

As well as the lifter pin for the fluted one…

I’ll be honest…it’s taking the “shine” off of what was an initially exciting bike upgrade…and rather than concentrating on my riding and putting in to practice newly taught IAM skills…I’m worrying and overthinking and anxious at every gear change. I don’t think that’s how it’s supposed to be

[Col_C]

@DanielB Sounds like you’re already doing it but definitely worth experimenting with gear change technique.
My experience with a 1050 Speed Triple -
Snicking in to first when just started up is smooth and silent, once warmed up it will always go in with a fair clonk.
Pottering around town box feels quite agricultural (but never have any problems selecting gears or neutral).
Out on the open road “making progress” box transforms in to “knife through butter”, you only need to feather the clutch with minimal roll-off of throttle.

Seeing you’ve changed the oil, just checking, the level on dip stick is checked when screwed in.
Also if it gets to a full clutch rebuild also check the fingers of the clutch basket for burrs/wear/ridges.

[DanielB]

Thanks @Col_C for checking… Yes, oil checked at fully screwed in…

And I read about the cage burrs just last night!

I’ll report back as things progress…

Continued thanks all!

[DanielB]

After a week of joy and plenty of help…I replaced the friction plates as everything seemed “old” and dry…

New friction pack in place and I am pleased to report that the gear changes are silky smooth!

[Hubaxe]

On my SPRINT ST 1050 I’ve been through this. Changed the friction pack, bt in hot condition still have sticky clutch episodes.
I should have changed the steel plates also, will probably do it sometime.
Gonna try 15W50 instead of 10W40 for this summer, see if it’s better.

[DanielB]

Alas I am not adept enough to be able to offer any suggestion, if you’re still having issues…

Looking at the friction plates that were in there it seemed ‘obvious’ that they weren’t in a very good condition. Not only were they glassy (failed fingernail test) but the plates themselves were a little gunky…and most definitely “dry”… So replacing the friction plates seemed an erudite solution no matter what (some suggested a clean up and oil soak, but I just felt it worth getting this done “on my watch” so I can tick it off).

So far (engine cold, warm and hot) the gear changes are wonderfully slick. Neutral is still a bit of a bugger to find, on occasion, but that I think is more “the bike” than an actual clutch issue.

Perhaps it is worth getting back in the clutch of yours and seeing/checking the plates are indeed still wet and oily? Were the steel plates checked for warping? Was it initially great after the new friction plates, but got worse - or it never improved at all?

What about the updated lifter pin idea?

Just checking the obvious…has the clutch cable been correctly adjusted since the new pack? And you got the order correct of all the plates?

Some photos of the state of the plates before…had to clean up the steel ones with fine grit wet n’ dry.
Note the slight burring on the cage too…anything that might prevent those plates separating!