There’s every chance (and not a worry) that the studs will unscrew from the head before the nuts come free. I’d recommend getting replacement studs in ready and replacing them anyway.
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Thanks…are these “available on Amazon” or very specific Triumph studs …?
I would go with genuine Triumph, these I think, but please check.
Nuts - T3350301 6-off £0.54each
Studs - T3100015 6-off £1.69each
My personal opinion, getting the manifold off is quite a mission, so having gone that far I would attempt to get the crack(s?) professionally welded up by a competent stainless welder. Quite a few companies are doing custom stainless systems for cars, so might be a good area to search in your area?
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Thank you @Col_C, I value your opinion.
Alas, I simply can not afford the likely cost involved in a professional repair job.
My rough plan - feel free to pick it apart(!) …nicely…is to get the headers off and then find the various holes - which I’m hoping won’t be large…but pin holes…and after a thorough rib down and degrease, will use repair paste… Sand down…and then VHT paint the headers.
I understand that this may not be a permanent repair …but hope to be long enough to wait for/happen across a better solution.
In the meantime…I have also been looking in to alternate hardware to make future dismantling less arduous.
Apparently, for example, brass header nuts are meant for exhausts …who knew 
…
Frustratingly I hoped to have it all back together for work come Tuesday. I already fear I’m gonna miss that deadline…
I think I’m already gonna need next week to order new studs!!
Thanks all…
I think the OE nuts are probably copper plated, but don’t survive that well.
It’s engineering practice to drill a hole at the ends of any stress cracks to stop further propogation, so you might consider doing that before filling.
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I’d at least get a quote for getting them welded and then consider your options.
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That’s a fair shout …I will…
So today’s update…and this never really happens…but every bloomin header fixing has budged “without issue”
Who’d have thought!!!
However I can not hone down the reason…
This is what I did…
Doused in plusgas all week.
When exposed (yesterday) applied heat to near-on red hot to the worst corroded nuts.
A decent and well fitting 6 sided socket (13mm); as that grips far better than 12 point socket.
But I think/feel/believe that the absolute defining factor was the YouTube ‘hack’ of applying a 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone…
Also, I read, that the header bolts are only 24(?)nm so hardly done up tight…just corroded.
So I think, hope…it will now go ok. However…there is one bugger…that has access fouped by the crash bars…I can’t get a socket in, only a ring spanner… But…slowly slowly…
Fingers crossed it keeps all coming…
I am also aware of another piece of important advice was, just like cutting a thread, as you undo you also need to tighten to break the buildup of debris etc. That also helped…
I am going to need new studs for sure though…as the nuts haven’t actual moved…I’ve just unwound the studs…
But so far…I don’t care! As it’s gone better than I anticipated!!
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Nice. I’m keeping a close on your progress. My Street Triple may be going down the same path soon.
Good prep counts.
Agreed.
It would be off by now but I’m struggling with the crash bar…but I am using a padded lever and managing to get in with a socket…but I need a 3rd hand…so am waiting for boy #1 to get home…he’s 16 now and almost useful!
Have taken some time to clean up around the cylinder block so no junk falls in when headers com off…
Will finish my wine…have dinner then get back on it…
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He wasn’t helping you, was he? I heard he was busy today.
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Home and dry. 
Always odds on the studs were going to come out with the nut. 
I felt his presence…
The big question now though …
Do I keep my mains powered windy gun that hasn’t come in time and isn’t needed (but is "out for dispatch)…or … Just in case 
Yeah…hopefully… although I’m no expert, I’ve tinkered enough to know that it can all yet go t*ts up…
Meanwhile…
I’m gonna order them new studs…
I’ll retap the hole , clean it out…
I’ll use two nuts on the stud to allow me to get them in proper …
Do/should I then use copper grease or blue thread lock on the studs…
And, should I use copper grease or blue thread lock on the new brass nuts?
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IMO Threadlock on the studs to also minimise galvanic corrosion in head. Probably copper grease on nuts, especially if you’re thinking header might be replaced in near future.
Thanks @Col_C … Yes…the plan is to go “fairly deep” with this overhaul as I reckon it’ll be me going in again at some point ! 
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Here, officially, is my sieve…
Many of the holes are at the end of what looks like fractures…I am considering it may be beyond repair…and awaiting a reply from a welder… 
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