Any experience in getting these seals out? We advised to renew them…
Ever time I do anything on my bike, sooner or later I use one of these.
2 Likes
The peace of mind you would get from a replacement set, would be worth a lot.
Whats the make and model?
Look for you bike on here.Find the part.Note the number.Then, check that number against other models wjth the same engine, when you have all the bikes with that part number you can use that imfo to expand your search on eBat.
Thank you @3speedlowslowgo I have in fact been in touch directly with Triumph and they confirm that no other models use these headers…
Give the carbon a good soaking in something like WD40 (others might advise something better to soften the carbon). They should then just prise out. When new they are hollow in section and soft copper.
Thanks…i have the new ones.
Am curious…are they really hollow section!? Well I never…
If my memory is correct, yes. They’re designed to squish to form the seal.
When you get the old ones out try cutting in half to see the construction.
1 Like
I’m a bit worried about how to get them out…I don’t want to score the head surface… Can’t get a small screwdriver under, or the point of a scribe… But will have a think. It’s a problem to overcome…a solution yet to be found…
Seriously, in all other walks of life I am NOT like this…I’m a giver-upper or I can’t be arsed!
I’ll be honest, I REALLY like this part of the hobby…I’ve really enjoyed the employment of new found skills or previously acquired ones to solve a problem… Have learned so much!
Even getting out the remaining well and truly stuck head stud… Two nuts didn’t help…as I could feel…actually feel the thread begining to get chewed by the nut. But applying heat…and then acetone/atf mix…and gently gently…undo, do up, undo, do up…and it started to come…SO satisfying…
7 Likes
They deform easily, so shouldn’t be difficult to get out. They have a few little tabs round the outside wich hold them in place when fitting the new ones. So looking at it face on, try to prise it from the outside inwards and not from underneath and towards you, if you get me.
+1 as Andy says. It’s the flat faces that are important and provide the seal with the crush gaskets, so any minor damage to the perimeter profile would be unimportant. The existing gaskets are copper so will be soft and easily distorted to aid removal. Be brave! 
1 Like
Thanks all so far…
Latest news, I can get Tig welded/purge repair for £100…but not until next week. I think this feels ok…except for the wait… Too long and I won’t remember how it all goes back together 
Meanwhile, for the little heat protection cover by the CAT…I need a new lug/chimney/captive nut. Can’t get that added to my WoT order so it’ll cost about 4 quid postage…
What irks me is that these lug nuts on the eBay etc are all zinc plated, so will just rot again…
Also also…where did people buy “lug nuts” from before you could Google what a lug nut was so you knew what it is you need to order; let alone where to get one!
Sometimes I really can’t remember how we coped!
1 Like
I think we had local shops that actually stocked stuff / provided a service, instead of remote warehouses.
Recently required a minor tap repair, tried several local plumbers merchants, “no sir, too many variants for us to bother stocking, try the internet”. Which I did - no problem. 
2 Likes
Whilst I would likely agree…I have no idea where I would go to ask “do you have a chimney nut”… It feels like I am asking for fork-handles… 
Not pretty …but welded up and am happy. I was advised by the chap to not sand down the welds, better to keep the meat on them.
He also said that painting them is only aesthetic but as SS no need otherwise.
Pleased with the 90 quid fix. I’ve posted elsewhere how he’ll retube them (so virtually new!) for £200…
Now I need to remember how it all goes back together!!
5 Likes
Nice one! Once its all back in place you’ll not see them anyway 
1 Like
So, many are dissing the welds.
It’s difficult to judge when you don’t know …
So,any feedback on those welds?
Is Tig welding difficult? SS difficult? Or just bad welding?
All opinions welcome
tig is a knack SS is difficult and needs special environments, thin, old,contaminated metal is harder.
So, while I have been deep down and dirty with my Tiger lass, maybe I should paint the exposed front of the engine block?
Any thoughts, advice, cleaning tips, paint suggestions? Or not bother…
I don’t know a lot about painting but I do know cleaning and preparation are the biggest factors to worry about.
2 Likes